Biography

Charles Dubouloz, born May 18, 1989, is a French mountaineer, Himalayan climber, steep skier, high-mountain guide, and lecturer. He is the first to achieve winter ascents, solo climbs, and alpine traverses. Charles Dubouloz was born in 1989 near Lake Annecy, at the foot of the mountains, in an environment where outdoor life was an obvious choice from a very young age. As a child, he was first passionate about skateboarding, then discovered endurance sports such as running and ski mountaineering, where he quickly excelled in competition. At 18, he had already achieved a podium finish at the Mont Blanc Marathon, before joining a trail running team, propelled by exceptional physical abilities, until a series of injuries forced him to abandon competition and reinvent his relationship with the mountains. He studied marketing before turning to mountaineering, gradually becoming one of the leading figures in contemporary French mountaineering. From the late 2010s onward, Charles Dubouloz distinguished himself with a clean, fast, and committed style, favoring solo ascents in often extreme conditions. He truly came into the spotlight in 2022 with his winter ascent of the north face of the Grandes Jorasses, notably via the Rolling Stones route, after six days and five nights on the face—a feat considered a major milestone in modern mountaineering. In parallel, he has undertaken numerous ambitious ascents in the Alps, particularly in the Écrins massif, where he has completed fast and lightweight multi-day climbs combining speed, improvisation, and commitment on peaks such as La Meije, La Barre des Écrins, and L'Ailefroide. Starting in 2021, he also opened a new alpine-style route on the north face of Chamlang in Nepal, and then attempted Manaslu, marking his entry into Himalayan mountaineering while maintaining his preference for more modest projects, far removed from large-scale expeditions. Over the years, Dubouloz has developed a highly personal vision of the mountains, centered on doubt, tamed fear, and the search for a form of inner truth through exertion. He advocates a minimalist approach to mountaineering, in small groups or solo, where every choice of equipment, line, and timing matters, and where lived experience is as important as quantifiable performance. In the winter of 2025–2026, Charles Dubouloz embarked on what was envisioned as his last major solo project: a winter trilogy across the major French mountain ranges, conceived as a personal odyssey as much as a sporting challenge. He sets off from home by bicycle, pulling a trailer of equipment, on a non-motorized trek between climbs. The first stage is the legendary Divine Providence on the Italian side of Mont Blanc, which he will summit in December 2025, followed by the Gamma route on the Barre des Écrins, and concludes the trilogy in February 2026 in the Pyrenees, on the Pic d’Ossau, via the West/Northwest route, bringing to a near-final end a project years in the making. At 37, he describes this trilogy as his ultimate great solo adventure, a way to turn the page and move towards other ways of living in the mountains, less focused on extreme performance.