Biography

Juan Eusebio Oiarzabal Urteaga, better known as Juanito Oiarzabal, born March 30, 1956 in Vitoria-Gasteiz (Alava, Basque Country), is the first Spanish mountaineer and the sixth in the world to reach the summit of the 14 peaks over 8,000 meters, the fourth in history to do so without the aid of additional oxygen. He is also the holder of the world record for ascents of 8,000 (23 total). So far, he has completed 35 major expeditions during his 23-year career as a mountaineer. The difficult descent he faced after reaching the summit of K2 in 2004 with Edurne Pasabán left both of them with frostbite, with Edurne suffering an amputation of two fingers and Juanito all of them. He is also famous for his participation in reality TV shows like El conquistador del fin del mundo or El conquistador del Aconcagua.