Biography

Alan Carne is a British climber born in Salford, near Manchester, England. Born into a modest family, he grew up in a difficult environment, raised by a single mother with his four siblings. At a very young age, he discovered climbing on the gritstone cliffs of the Peak District, cycling long distances to escape the city and explore nature. In the 1970s and 1980s, Alan became part of the Peak District climbing community, rubbing shoulders with legendary figures such as Jerry Moffat, Ron Fawcett, and Derek Hersey. This period forged his style, marked by the precision and technical mastery required by British traditional climbing. His taste for adventure quickly led him to travel, particularly to France, where he discovered the Verdon Gorge in 1979. This place would become central to his life: he settled there permanently in 2005 and established himself as an influential member of the local community. He earned the Brevet d'État Escalade, a French national certification that attests to his high level of climbing and teaching skills. Over the course of more than forty years, Alan Carne has climbed numerous iconic routes around the world, from the Verdon to Yosemite, via Wadi Rum, Australia, and India. He is renowned for his ability to successfully complete difficult ascents, sometimes onsights, and for his exceptional longevity on the rock. His notable achievements include routes such as Tague Yer Time (5.12+, Black Canyon), Phoenix (5.13a, Yosemite), and numerous extreme routes in the Verdon. A defining event in his life occurred in 1996 when he suffered a serious fall in the Verdon, which prompted him to develop an even more thoughtful and precise approach to climbing. Today, Alan shares his experience as a climbing guide and instructor, while continuing to climb at a remarkable level. Outside of climbing, he cultivates a passion for the guitar, which he sees as complementary to climbing through the pursuit of perfection of movement and the discipline of training.